Senggigi Sunset © Fery Indrawan
Just a few miles south of Ampenan, Senggigi is the most developed holiday resort on Lombok, characterised by broad bays, towering headlands and first-rate hotels and restaurants, and boasting the only real nightlife in Lombok. Being close to the airport it makes a good first or last night stop for those intent on exploring the island. The drive north along the coast from Senggigi to Pemenang is a great day out for those with a car, offering spectacular views of the Gili Islands and across to Bali when the weather is clear. The twisting road takes holiday visitors to an expanse of coast that is totally undeveloped with only a few coastal villages dotted behind sweeping bays of turquoise water and palm trees. Just south of Senggigi is the Batu Bolong Temple: weighed down under an excess of lurid pink paint, its shrines are spread around a rocky promontory with fabulous views in both directions along the coast. The main part of the temple is built over an archway in the rock, a hole through which virgins were once supposedly sacrificed to appease the gods. Today this is a quiet and peaceful spot and a favourite with local fishermen. Spear fishing is a popular activity, along with scuba diving, snorkelling, hiking, and cycling.