
Belize City shore © katedubya
In Belize nearly all journeys begin and end in Belize City, the
country's biggest urban enclave and port of entry, which, if one
researches its history and situation, does not seem to be a very
enticing tourist destination in itself. Belize City sits in a swamp
that stretches across Haulover Creek at the mouth of the Belize
River, criss-crossed with narrow streets and rather smelly canals
which are lined with a jolly jumble of buildings, some little more
than dilapidated shacks and others attempts at rather pretentious
modern stores. In between are some pretty wooden houses and
colonial landmark buildings. The city has clung tenaciously onto
its muddy roots since it was abandoned as a Mayan fishing camp in
the 1600s and taken over by pirates and buccaneers as a logging
camp. Late in the 17th century, along came the Spanish, who cut
down the mahogany upriver, floated the logs downstream and exported
them from the motley little encampment at the river mouth. Later
the British established Belize Town, which began the city's formal,
rather tragic, passage into modern times. Three times devastated by
fires, scourged by disease epidemics, flattened by hurricanes and
tidal waves, the city somehow survived and today, in the new
millennium, it subsists on tourism and fishing, remaining the
cultural, commercial and social centre of Belize despite the
capital having been moved to Belmopan in 1969.
Most visitors to Belize City come ashore on tenders from dozens
of luxury cruise liners which include the city in their
itineraries, mainly to allow passengers to take adventure
excursions to see and experience the wonderful natural attractions
of the interior and coastline of Belize. Cruise passengers are
welcomed at the showpiece Belize Tourism Village, where courtyards
and attractive buildings contain a variety of restaurants, souvenir
shops, craft stalls and other facilities to cater for their needs.
It is the departure point for numerous land and marine tours.
Independent visitors to Belize also generally start their
exploration of the country in Belize City, and can find some sights
of interest to fill a few days layover in the town, including the
world's only manually operated swing bridge, some colonial
architectural treasures like the Paslow Building, the novel St
John's Cathedral built by slaves from bricks brought as ballast in
ships from Europe, and the art gallery at the Bliss Institute,
bequeathed to the city by British Baron, Henry Bliss, who died on
his yacht in the harbour. Also well worth a visit are the Maritime
Museum and Museum of Belize.