
Belgodere, Balagne area of Corsica © Judith Duk
Overview: The inland area along the northwest coast of Corsica has been renowned since Roman times as an orchard of olive, fig and orange trees and the breadbasket of the island, crisscrossed by a network of narrow, winding roads. Tiny villages such as Sant'Antonino and Speloncato perch high above the countryside built around rocky outcrops, while others along the Artisan's Route, like Pigna, proudly display their traditional crafts such as pottery and stringed instruments. Set beneath a wall of imposing jagged mountains that remain snow-capped until July, the rocky coastline of the Balagne area shelters a string of stunning white sand beaches and an old fishing settlement now turned into one of the island's most popular resort towns at Calvi. In the shadow of its citadel built by the Genoese, Calvi bathes in the legend of Christopher Columbus whose birthplace it is said to be. It was during an attack on Calvi that another famous mariner, Lord Nelson, lost his eye. Not far away from this historic and compact gem can be found another port town, Ile Rousse, founded by Pascal Paoli in direct contrast to Calvi, which he felt was too Genoese. Many of the settlements along this coast have been developed into busy holiday villages, however the stunning scenery and idyllic beaches more than compensate for the crowds. Trains connect Calvi and Ile Rousse with Ajaccio and Bastia. Buses are also available.
Activities
Hiking: The mountainous island is extremely well suited to walking, and
options range from difficult multi-day hikes to strolls along
clifftops, and day hikes up into the mountains. The GR20 is reputed
to be the best and most challenging long-distance walk in Europe,
and is the most famous hike in Corsica. Fifteen days of demanding
walking takes hikers along the inland granite spine of mountains
dividing the island from Calenzana to Conca. Other well known, but
less taxing walks include the Mare e Monti (sea to mountains) and
Mare a Mare (sea to sea) trails that last from five, seven and 10
days. The area around Corte and Vizzavona has numerous day walks in
the mountains; there are also a number of coastal walks such as the
walk to Girolata on the west coast or Le Sentier des Douaniers on
Cap Corse, and forests and ravines invite walkers to discover
beautiful waterfalls, swimming holes and wonderful views. The GR20
should be walked in summer between May and October, although late
snows can prevail until June, which requires a more technical
approach.
Diving: Corsica's Mediterranean coastline offers superb diving
opportunities. The sea temperature is warmest in August, and calm,
clear waters make for excellent visibility. The Reserve Naturelle
des Bouches de Bonifacio is the most visited area with outstanding
dive conditions. Almost all the gulfs have dive centres and there
are sites in and around Ajaccio, Porto Vecchio, Propriano, Cargese,
Porto, Calvi and St-Florent. For expert divers, one of the top dive
sites is the wreck of a B-17 bomber near Calvi. The peak dive
season is between June and August.
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