Balagne Travel Guide

Belgodere, Balagne area of Corsica © Judith Duk

Overview: The inland area along the northwest coast of Corsica has been renowned since Roman times as an orchard of olive, fig and orange trees and the breadbasket of the island, crisscrossed by a network of narrow, winding roads. Tiny villages such as Sant'Antonino and Speloncato perch high above the countryside built around rocky outcrops, while others along the Artisan's Route, like Pigna, proudly display their traditional crafts such as pottery and stringed instruments.

Set beneath a wall of imposing jagged mountains that remain snow-capped until July, the rocky coastline of the Balagne area shelters a string of stunning white sand beaches and an old fishing settlement, now turned into one of the island's most popular holiday resort towns, at Calvi. In the shadow of its citadel, built by the Genoese, Calvi bathes in the legend of Christopher Columbus whose birthplace it is said to be. It was during an attack on Calvi that another famous mariner, Lord Nelson, lost his eye.

Not far away from this historic and compact gem can be found another port town, Ile Rousse, founded by Pascal Paoli in direct contrast to Calvi, which he felt was too Genoese. Many of the settlements along the Balagne coast have been developed into busy holiday villages, however the stunning scenery and idyllic beaches more than compensate for the crowds. Trains connect Calvi and Ile Rousse with Ajaccio and Bastia. Buses are also available.

Activities

Hiking: The mountainous island is extremely well suited to walking, and options range from difficult multi-day hikes to strolls along clifftops, and day hikes up into the mountains. The GR20 is reputed to be the best and most challenging long-distance walk in Europe, and is the most famous hike in Corsica. Fifteen days of demanding walking takes hikers along the inland granite spine of mountains dividing the island from Calenzana to Conca. Other well known, but less taxing walks include the Mare e Monti (sea to mountains) and Mare a Mare (sea to sea) trails that last from five, seven and 10 days. The area around Corte and Vizzavona has numerous day walks in the mountains; there are also a number of coastal walks such as the walk to Girolata on the west coast or Le Sentier des Douaniers on Cap Corse, and forests and ravines invite walkers to discover beautiful waterfalls, swimming holes and wonderful views. The GR20 should be walked in summer between May and October, although late snows can prevail until June, which requires a more technical approach.
Diving: Corsica's Mediterranean coastline offers superb diving opportunities. The sea temperature is warmest in August, and calm, clear waters make for excellent visibility. The Reserve Naturelle des Bouches de Bonifacio is the most visited area with outstanding dive conditions. Almost all the gulfs have dive centres and there are sites in and around Ajaccio, Porto Vecchio, Propriano, Cargese, Porto, Calvi and St-Florent. For expert divers, one of the top dive sites is the wreck of a B-17 bomber near Calvi. The peak dive season is between June and August.