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Molivos Castle © siragri

Overview: The most picturesque town on Lesvos island, the holiday destination of Molivos, on the northern tip, is also Lesvos's most popular holiday resort, offering a serene, laidback ambience from its pretty harbour to the tiers of red-roofed stone houses that slope up from the blue sea to a hilltop crowned with a medieval castle. Molivos was known as Mithymna in ancient days and has been occupied since prehistoric times, as a visit to the town's archaeological museum will demonstrate. Lazy days in Molivos are spent bathing, snorkelling and sunbathing on the pebbly beach, or strolling the quaint cobbled streets of the wisteria-shaded market around the central square. As the day wanes, sip a cocktail on the balcony with a spectacular sunset as a backdrop, followed by a delicious Greek dinner under the stars at a taverna on the waterfront. Many visitors confess to finding Molivos 'too good to be true', almost a stage setting for the perfect Greek village, and as one watches the world go gently by from a shaded taverna it is easy to agree with this perception. Although it does become very crowded during the height of summer, the town is a protected conservation area and will hopefully hold on to its authentic atmosphere.

Shopping: Molivos has an enjoyable market for holidaymakers to explore, set along cobble-stoned alleys radiating from the central square, and shaded by lush foliage. Among the many touristy souvenirs on offer there is also plenty of local produce and crafts. While not designed for serious shop-aholics, browsing here is a pleasant way to pass an hour or two. There is also a supermarket for self-caterers.

Restaurants: For holidaymakers to really appreciate dining in Molivos, visitors have to be prepared to 'go Greek' and sample the fare on offer at the many traditional tavernas, sited mainly around the harbour and the market area. This being a fishing village, seafood is obviously the pride of most local menus, particularly mackerel and sardines. Most popular with holidaymakers is The Captain's Table overlooking the harbour, which serves up great Greek fish dishes and other specialities as well as some Italian pasta. Also recommended is the Galley restaurant, famed for its Greek desserts and mouth-watering lamb, Restaurant Tropicana for breakfast and lunch and the Grill House for the best souvlaki and pitta giro in town.

Nightlife: While it may not be crammed with rowdy young clubbers and pubbers, the holiday resort of Molivos is not totally devoid of jolly after-dark activity with a variety of lively bars in town, and a few discos and clubs on the fringes, with enough energetic youngsters to fill them. Others prefer sipping ouzo to the strains of a bazouki, or passing their evening wining and dining over stimulating conversation in a relaxed taverna. Most of the nighttime noise and bustle is set well away from the hotels, so those who enjoy early nights will not be disturbed. In high summer Molivos has a popular arts festival with performances at the Castle, and there is also an open-air cinema showing English films.

Activities: Molivos is built on a rock, and therefore the town's beach is covered in coarse grey pebbles. It is, however, pristine and washed by crystal clear water, well supplied with sunbeds and seasonal watersports. Those who are more active can enjoy walking either up or down the coast to find their own secluded hide-away for bathing or snorkelling. Just a short distance to the south, at Petra, there is a broad sandy beach for those who dislike the pebbles. Aside from exploring the village, visitors can take organised excursions or hire their own transport and set off to see the sights of the rest of the island, which are many and varied. A popular outing is to experience the natural thermal baths at Eftalou, to the east of Molivos. There are also various boat trips on offer at the harbour, some to the Turkish mainland, or for a fun alternative try donkey trekking.

Negatives: Some holidaymakers have been disappointed to find Molivos' town beach to be pebbled.