Jade Richards:
South-east of Zurich, we went to Klosters on holiday – wonderful! It's near enough to Davos Dorf to share the Parsenn ski area, but is still a traditional, quiet village (ideal for families and romantic couples). The neighbourhoods are made up of picture-perfect chalets, the views are pristinely Alpine
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Overview Situated about six miles (10km) from the busy Swiss ski resort
of Davos Dorf, in the heart of the Graubunden region south-east of
Zurich, the small, traditional and quiet village of Klosters shares
the expansive Parsenn ski area with the larger resort, but offers a
more exclusive and romantic holiday setting.
Klosters, its two pretty neighbourhoods filled with picturesque
chalets, also has its own ski area, the Madrisa, ensuring the
resort offers skiing for all abilities in a discreetly charming
Alpine setting, away from the madding crowd of the tourist mass
market. Exclusivity is expensive, however, and therefore this
holiday resort is regarded as upmarket. For this reason, Klosters
has become known as the holiday haunt of the rich and famous, and
is particularly favoured by the British Royal family, especially
Prince Charles, as a winter sports getaway with first-class,
off-piste skiing.
Skiing Combined with the Davos area, Klosters is part of the Rega Pass
Ski Area, and offers skiers direct access to 190 miles (307km) of
downhill piste, the 97 individual pistes served by 52 ski lifts.
The Parsenn is the best-known area and is reached by the Gotschna
cable car. The longest run in the area is over seven miles (12km).
The resort is renowned for its powder snow, the altitude ensuring
coverage throughout the season, and offers skiing to suit all ages
and stages. Snowboarders are catered for with two terrain parks and
one halfpipe.
Shopping The holiday resort of Klosters is permeated with small
speciality stores, with sports outlets predominating although there
are some exclusive art and crafts galleries. Those who want to
become really involved in a shopping expedition prefer to take the
short trip to neighbouring Davos, a typical 'mega-resort' with more
than 100 stores, art galleries and boutiques selling all manner of
goods from souvenir cow bells to designer clothing. The shops in
Davos are centred along the two main streets around the Davos
Platz.
Restaurants For its size the little village of Klosters has an abundance of
restaurants, both on and off-snow, some of them among the best in
Europe. The atmospheric Chesa Grischuna, for example, has been an
institution in the town since 1938, its history as enthralling as
the quality of its cuisine. Another holiday dining treat is the
Walserhof hotel's Michelin-starred restaurant, where famed Swiss
chef Beat Bolliger conjures up imaginative delights using mainly
local produce.
Other excellent hotel restaurants open to non-residents in Klosters
are The Alpina and Alte Post. Booking is essential at most
restaurants, and expect to pay a high price for high quality. For
delicious pizzas try Al Berto. Klosters is also famed for its
wonderful mountain eating houses, known as Schwendis, which are
rustic timber Alpine huts, most with terraces to take advantage of
sunny days.
Nightlife Après-ski on a Klosters holiday is merry but low-key. As
the skiers and snowboarders come down from the slopes they gather
at the
Schwendis (mountain chalet bars) or a few favourite
spots like Gaudi's for a warming glass of beer or schnapps.
Cocktails and before-dinner drinks are sipped in hotel bars. The
Piano Bar at Chesa Grischuna is the most stylish. The late-night
disco/club in Klosters is the Casa Antica, with a disco on the
ground floor, and classy cocktail bars on the two upper floors.
Activities Apart from skiing and snowboarding, and their attendant
activities like cross-country events and night trails, a winter
holiday in Klosters is full of fun activities for all ages. There
are dozens of miles of winter hiking trails, seven toboggan runs,
ice hockey and figure skating lessons, organised snow-shoe treks,
curling rinks and horse-drawn sleigh rides through snowy
landscapes. Most of the larger hotels in the area offer indoor
swimming pools and spa treatments. In nearby Davos, reached by bus
or train in a few minutes, there is indoor golf, tennis and squash,
and a large casino.
Negatives Klosters is considered to be rather swanky and quite is
expensive.
Activities
Glacier Express
Advertised as the 'slowest express train in the world', the
Glacier Express is also the most panoramic, and is a breathtaking
way to experience the magnificence of the Swiss Alps. The seven and
a half hour journey begins daily from Zermatt. The red mountain
train crosses more than 291 bridges, winds its way through 91
tunnels and seven valleys and over the 6,670ft (2,033m) Oberalp
Pass to the resort of St Moritz, in a spectacular feat of mountain
engineering. The train is equipped with large windows for clear
viewing and the scenery, including mountain panoramas, quaint
villages and wooden chalets, forests and alpine pastures, is
stunning. A dining car provides lunch and the mini-bar contains
tilted wine glasses to counter the lean of the carriages along the
steep mountainous route. The train can be taken in either
direction, and if time is short it is possible to travel along a
short section of the route, but either way it is advisable to make
advance bookings as the train is very popular. There are several
departures a day during summer and one a day in winter.