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Bodrum © balsoy.com

Overview: The popular holiday resort of Bodrum, called Halicarnassus in ancient times, is the South Aegean's most attractive resort, described by Homer as 'The land of eternal blue'. The hillside is covered in painted villas adorned with bougainvillea, narrow streets wind their way down to the sea, and the peaceful setting of its twin harbours offer shelter for yachts.

Bodrum is a mustering point for local boats offering tailor-made daytrips to nearby islands or the pristine beaches and seaside restaurants along the magnificent coastline. From its position between the two harbours, the 15th century crusader Castle of St Peter dominates every part of the town, now home to the fascinating Museum of Underwater Archaeology. The other Bodrum holiday attraction is the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, the crumbling remains of one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

As Turkey's leading seaside holiday destination, Bodrum is packed with foreign visitors in summer, yet it remains unspoilt and retains its charming Turkish character, perfecting the balance between exotic bazaars, the wailing cry of the muezzin and ancient history, with water sports, sunbathing and a nightlife that is notorious throughout Turkey.

Shopping: Like everywhere in Turkey, shopping on a Bodrum holiday is quite an adventure, with dozens of shops lining the busy narrow streets, mainly from the bus station down to the marina. Touts and vendors offer a variety of local goods, from carpets and kilims to leatherware, gold and silver jewellery, and designer clothing (much of which is fake). Look out for Turkish meershaum pipes and onyx. There is an extensive, colourful craft market in operation on Tuesdays, and a fruit and vegetable market on Fridays. Bargaining is expected and it is customary to haggle down to about half the asking price. In Bodrum some shops stay open late at night, some even all night.

Restaurants: Warm, sultry evenings in Bodrum are best spent dining on fresh seafood or local specialities in one of the numerous restaurants. Those who prefer to stick to more familiar tastes will find plenty of the usual popular cuisines on offer too, like Italian, Thai, Chinese, Mexican and European. Renowned as the top place in town for typical Turkish is Denizhan, a little out of town between Konacik and Ortakent, easily reached in a dolmus or taxi.

For excellent Aegean dishes, especially lamb, Epsilon in the old town is hard to beat. The best pizza in Bodrum is served up with a view on the rooftop terrace of Sunger Pizza, while a good blend of Mediterranean and Californian cuisine can be enjoyed at La Jolla Bistro at Xuma Beach. Also very popular is the Secret Garden, near the Marina, where English cooks prepare gourmet Mediterranean fare with flair.

Nightlife: The nightlife on a Bodrum holiday is frenetic and varied, offering not only western-style decadent clubs and discos, but also the chance to sample partying Turkish style at one of the meyhanes (there are several of these local nightclubs on the road to Konacik and Ortakent) where the crowd joins in with the local artiste, singing, dancing, eating and drinking.

Most of the bars in Bodrum's mile-long 'Bar Street' (Dr. Alim Bey and Cumhuriyet Street), offer dancing, belly-dancing shows, live music and outdoor seating (often on the beach) with a view of the illuminated castle. For clubbers the main place to be is Halikarnas, one of the biggest and swankiest open-air clubs in the world, where the entrance charge matches the volume of the music and brightness of the laser lights. There are plenty of other clubs, even one on a catamaran that sets sail late at night and takes the party out to sea until the dawn.

Activities: The blue Aegean waters that wash the beaches of the peninsula on which Bodrum is perched lend themselves admirably to a vast range of watersports, from scuba diving to windsurfing and jet-skiing. Local operators can be found all over the area, renting out equipment, arranging excursions or offering lessons. Aquatic thrills are also on offer at the town's two waterparks.

Those who grow tired of the sea and sand can go hiking; local walking clubs offer programmes (generally not in the height of the summer season when it is too hot). There are numerous ways to get out of town and explore the enchanting villages, bays and historic sites in the area. Either hire a car, motor-bike, or bicycle; take a boat/hydrofoil trip; book an organised excursion; a jeep safari; or simply hop on a dolmus (mini-bus). An absolute 'must' is to enjoy a hamam (Turkish bath), complete with massage, to soothe the cares away.

Negatives: Bodrum beaches can become very crowded during the height of the summer holiday season. The city's narrow streets become clogged with tourists, day and night, during peak periods. Women have complained of experiencing unwelcome attention from local men.

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