Overview: Tortola is the largest of the British Virgin Islands and one of the least glitzy and most traditional islands in the Caribbean. A mountain range down its centre lends drama to the landscape and ensures any road journey is both scenic and time consuming.

Tortola was historically a pirates nest, and the surrounding coves and waters ruled by the flag of the skull and crossbones. Today the island is a popular cruise stop with the result that its relatively few attractions can get overrun with visitors during busy periods. First sighted by Columbus in 1443, Tortola became a British colony, evidenced in part by the charming Red Royal Mail post boxes still in use today.

Calm sees and clean waters make for excellent diving and snorkelling conditions, and have helped to make Tortola one of the main yachting centres in the world.

Ships dock at Road Harbour, from where passengers can easily walk into town. Contact:

British Virgin Islands Tourist Board

Second floor AKARA Building, central Road Town

Tel: +284 494 3134
www.bvitourism.com

Transport: The town of Road Harbour is a short walk away from the disembarkation pier and can be easily explored on foot. To explore further afield hire a taxi, $20 to the furthest point on the island. Numerous car rental companies are available. To visit any of the other islands, or Soper's Hole (West End) and Beef Island (East End) on Tortola, catch a ferry from the port. Attractions: Cane Garden and Brewer's Bay are beautiful beaches, close to town, but can get very crowded. Long Bay and Apple Bay are also worth a visit. The Botanic Gardens are worth visiting and if you have the energy don't miss a hike up Sage Mountain, the highest peak in the British Virgin Islands. Restaurants:

• Mrs. Scatliffe's - superb West Indian food served on mama's terrace
• The Dove - no view, but great food and it's where the locals eat
• Brandywine - amazing views meets creative cuisine in this local favourite

Best dish: linefish and a classic Painkiller cocktail (national drink of the BVI)

Shopping: The Crafts Alive Marketplace on the Waterfront sells local arts and crafts, while Sunny Caribbee is a shop with a wonderful range of interesting merchandise. Soper's Hole at the West End has a range of shops catering to visitors.

Best buy: A bottle of Pusser's Rum and/or Arawak Love Potion and Hangover Cure

Excursions:

• Swim with dolphins with Dolphin Discovery
• Explore the maze of boulders at The Baths
• Visit Marina Cay on the eastern tip of Tortola