
Mosque © Judith Duk
SYRIA SECURITY UPDATE: All travel to Syria is
highly unrecommended at this time due to an ongoing and severe
political crisis. Long-standing frustration with Syrian president
Bashar Al-Assad led to the outbreak of violent protests in January
2011, and extreme sectarian violence has ensued since then, largely
between the Syrian Army (who remain loyal to Al-Assad) and the Free
Syrian Army, a group of defected military personnel. With the
threat of civil war looming, Al-Assad has been given an ultimatum
by fellow Arab League leaders to form a coalition government and to
introduce democracy to Syria. Visitors are urged to wait until the
political situation has calmed down before attempting travel to
Syria.
Arabic hospitality can be somewhat overwhelming for first-time
visitors, and nowhere else in the Middle East will visitors receive
such a genuine demonstration of Arabic hospitality, accompanied by
a refreshingly sincere welcome, than in the Arab Republic of Syria.
'Ahlan wa sahlan' is a phrase that will be heard often throughout
the country, meaning 'You are welcome', and will more than likely
be accompanied by a traditional cup of Arabic coffee or a glass of
tea, or an offer to share in the family meal.
Syria once included present day Lebanon, Jordan and Palestine
within its borders, but today is enclosed by Turkey to the north,
Lebanon and the Mediterranean Sea to the west, Jordan and Israel to
the south, and Iraq to the east. Its central position on the
caravan and trade route was largely responsible for its
intermingling of beliefs and ideas, having survived a myriad
invasions and occupations over the ages from the Persians and
Greeks to the Romans, Crusaders and Arabs.
The Syria of today offers tourists as much a cultural experience
as a sightseeing one, where ancient history provides a fascinating
backdrop to everyday life on the streets. Part of the ancient
caravan route, the 500-year old souqs (covered markets)
are a riot of colour and turmoil, where anything from handmade
chunks of soap and carpets to sheep's tongues and underwear are
sold from shops crammed into the narrow cobblestone alleyways. On
the streets, donkeys, 1960s American car-taxis, bicycles, minibuses
and private jeeps vie for priority, while street vendors and
shoe-shiners clog the sidewalks, forcing pedestrians to take on the
traffic amid a cacophony of hooting and shouting.
One of the most interesting places for travellers is the capital
city of Damascus, brimming with history as one of the oldest
continuously-inhabited cities in the world. Then there is Aleppo in
the north with its citadel, elaborately decorated hammans
(bath houses), ancient souq and the nearby ruins of St
Simeon, considered to be one of the world's oldest remaining
churches. In Syria's central region lie the ancient Greek ruins of
Palmyra, located in the desert oasis that has long been a crucial
stopover for caravans crossing the Syrian desert, while the
friendly town of Hama is famous for its ancient wooden water-wheels
and is in proximity to the impressive crusader castle of Krak de
Chevaliers. Syria also boasts many resorts along the Mediterranean
Coast.
Time spent in Syria will be as gratifying as it is interesting,
and visitors will return home with a collection of stories to tell,
a wealth of fond recollections, and a camera full of
photographs.