Tratevere © Verity Cridland
Separated from central Rome by the Tiber River, Trastevere is a picturesque medieval neighbourhood characterised by a quirky Bohemian atmosphere. Its narrow cobblestone streets are lined with overhanging flower boxes and washing lines and are home to numerous cafes, boutiques, pubs and restaurants. The area has long attracted artists, celebrities and expats, escaping the grand developments of central Rome. There are some glorious old churches, perhaps the most lovely being the Basilica of Santa Maria, which has wonderful mosaics and draws many visitors into the area for the first time. It is quite different at night time, when it seems more elegant, and it's worth visiting more than once.